The history of Napa Valley winemaking is often told from the perspective of the founders. But without the wisdom, wit, grit, and community of the women in their lives, many of the wineries established by these men would not have prospered. Bertha Beringer, daughter of co-founder Jacob Beringer and his wife, Agnes, is one of the remarkable Napa Valley women who played a critical role in the history of her family’s business, the region, and the California wine industry as a whole.
Born for Wine
Bertha Beringer was born April 8, 1883, on the Beringer property in St. Helena. The third of seven children and the oldest girl, Bertha grew up with her family among the winery buildings and vineyards, learning the business early, from the ground up. She lived in St. Helena her entire life, working at the winery for many decades, and passing in 1970 at the age of 87.
Taking Care of the Business of Beringer
When Jacob Beringer retired in 1911, his adult children took charge: Charles Beringer ran the sales office, Otto oversaw the cellar, Martha worked the bottling line, and Bertha became the business manager.
Saving Beringer from Prohibition
Just as women had been the driving force behind Prohibition’s enactment, women, particularly the women of Napa Valley, were a driving force in its repeal. But first, they had to keep the wine business and their communities afloat. Having astutely read the social and political mood, Bertha Beringer used her connections to acquire a license to make sacramental wine before Prohibition became law. Due in large part to Bertha, Beringer was not only able to remain open, the winery kept all its cellar and vineyard employees working as well. Today, Beringer is the oldest continually operating winery in California.
Do Not Use This Brick to Make Wine
Bertha Beringer is also credited with inventing the “grape brick,” a block of compressed, dried grapes that could be used to make wine at home. During Prohibition, making up to 200 gallons per year of non-intoxicating fermented fruit beverages at home remained legal, but because “non-intoxicating” wasn’t clearly defined, people interpreted it for themselves. In accordance with the law, Beringer couldn’t say their grape bricks were for making wine, so the packaging said, very emphatically, the opposite. Each brick came with detailed instructions telling the owner how NOT to make wine from it: “Do not dissolve this brick in a gallon of water, add sugar, or store it in a cupboard for 21 days.” The bricks became extremely popular and were marketed by the California Wine Association throughout the 1920s.
Was Bertha Beringer a Whisper Sister?
In addition to sacrament wine and grape bricks, there were rumors that Bertha Beringer might also have been a “whisper sister,” or the proprietress of a small, illegal speakeasy. The secret was kept well enough that to this day, we still can’t confirm or deny its truth.
After Prohibition, Beringer Hits the Ground Running
Despite the 13 long years of the Volstead Act that decimated the American wine industry, thanks to the sacramental wine license Bertha had acquired and smart stewardship by herself and her siblings, Beringer Winery came out of Prohibition ready to thrive in a new era. According to the St. Helena Star: “Unusual activity at Beringer Winery recalls pre-Prohibition days. The winery has laid out a program of enlargement and improvement to cover a period of several years, the features of which being carried out at present are the installation of a second crusher, the re-coopering of 60 casks, and the construction of a bottling building. Both buildings will harmonize in architecture with the picturesque stone cellar building.”
FAQS
What is a “Whisper Sister”?
During Prohibition, women who owned and operated speakeasies, or small hidden bars, were called whisper sisters. Since these businesses were illegal, awareness of their existence was spread entirely by word of mouth, or whispers. Bertha Beringer was one of the Napa Valley women rumored to have been a whisper sister.
What was the Volstead Act?
The Volstead Act, or Prohibition, was an amendment to the US Constitution enacted in 1919. Until its repeal in 1933, it meant the sale of “intoxicating liquor,” including wine, was illegal in America. It is estimated that 90–99% of American wineries closed because of Prohibition. Beringer winery was one of the very few that was able to stay in business. Today, Beringer is the oldest continually operating winery in California.
How did Bertha Beringer keep the Beringer Winery open during Prohibition?
Before Prohibition was enacted, Bertha Beringer was able to acquire a license to make sacramental wine. She’s also credited with inventing the extremely popular “grape brick,” which could be used to (legally) make wine at home. However, the brick couldn’t be advertised as a way to make wine.
Why is Bertha Beringer an important woman in Napa Valley wine?
Having grown up at her father Jacob’s winery, Bertha Beringer learned the business of winemaking early. Her intelligence, experience, and connections helped Bertha and her siblings keep the winery open during Prohibition. She took over management of the business side of the winery after her father retired in 1911.
